He was a machinist in Paris who started in the ’40s and came to prominence in the ’50s and ’60s. “Certain gold jewelry by Georges L’Enfant is the soup du jour, if you will. The animal kingdom-inspired pieces by David Webb and Bulgari’s use of colored gemstones have everyone looking for their estate pieces.” Noelle Sciacca, Senior Fashion Lead, Women’s, Fine Jewelry and Home at The RealRealĪ gold necklace available at Stephen Russell - Credit: Stephen Russell These are pieces that are great for everyday wear but still make a visual impact.īold colors and heavier metals seem to be a hallmark of the pieces we’ve acquired from the ’80s and ’90s. Big chunky statement pieces: gold tank bracelets, door-knocker style earrings, and heavy chain necklaces always find a home quickly. Gold retro jewelry is very much in style right now. There is always great demand for vibrant, untreated colored gemstones especially when they’re from iconic houses like Bulgari, Van Cleef & Arpels and Cartier. The sophisticated make and design of the pieces from the 1920s and ’30s are something we seek out when acquiring new pieces and our clients feel the same way. “We’ve bought and sold some incredible Art Deco period jewelry this year. We’re just seeing the supply for the more contemporary stuff is going up.” Natasha Plotitsa-Tsimmerman, co-owner of Platt Boutique Jewelry, Los Angelesĭavid Webb Panther Brooch from M.S. I don’t want to diminish our love for these older styles and designs because we’re obsessed with them. But there’s still tons of more contemporary jewelry that mirrors the fashions and feels a bit more in step with the times. Supply and demand-the pool of these pieces is diminishing and those prices are going up. It’s not too big, not too small, and takes up the perfect amount of finger real estate.īut good Victorian and Deco pieces are getting harder to find. People still want a beautiful classic ring-like this Art Deco ring we have with two huge beautiful Old European-cut diamonds that create a marquise shape. We’re still selling Victorian pieces, Deco pieces, of course-especially with engagement rings. Nobody wanted them, but people are fighting over them now. Those gold Omega and Herringbone chains that five years ago people were melting by the gobs. “Something I’m seeing that I’m super drawn to but wouldn’t have looked at eight or nine years ago when we started our business are the ’80s and ’90s Italian, Bulgari-like pieces that people now can’t get enough of.įashion, in general, is switching to that whole Y2K style, and maybe jewelry’s not quite Y2K but it’s in that ’90s realm of what people are wanting. That bright and cheerful look - it’s a lot about color and it doesn’t matter what period it is.” Sunny Bond, Co-Owner of Fox & Bond, Los Angelesįox & Bond Art Deco Diamond Ring - Credit: Fox & Bond Or sometimes they’d put Art Deco charms onto a yellow gold bangle, so I think the mixed metals thing really is coming back. We’ve sold the wide bracelets done in the Retro period with an Art Deco brooch appliqued to a wide gold ’40s bracelet. People are wearing multiples of those they’re starting to stack the color and stack the yellow gold. We’re seeing mixing again with colored stone bracelets, like those from the ’40s that had 5-carat amethyst and citrine stones. Moonstones are hot and we’re selling them in every possible period, from the Victorian era to mid-century. We’re selling a lot more colored stone rings in white metal. Platinum is making a little bit of a comeback. Most rings with larger stones will be from the latter half of the 20 th century: a lot of Retro, ’60s and ’70s jewelry. “We’re finding that colored stone rings continue to be very strong-especially in larger sizes. Vintage jewelry is instant gratification.” Suzanne Martinez, Co-Owner of Lang Antiques, San Francisco There’s less inventory around, but it’s not like buying a car, where you have to wait for the computer chips and parts. The other thing about vintage jewelry is that we don’t have a supply chain issue. “We can make more beautiful jewelry, but we can’t make more beautiful vintage jewelry,” says Zelenetz. The specialists we quoted below said they expected the vintage jewelry market to have another banner year this holiday season, partly owing to the category’s relative rarity. This isn’t to say that jewels from earlier eras, such as perpetually sought-after Deco engagement rings or always-fashionable Victorian starburst earrings, are out of style. That goes triple if you’re talking about designs by Bulgari or Cartier. Unlike pieces from the Victorian, Art Deco and Retro periods, most of which have been in circulation for years and are now in private hands, jewels from the ’80s and ’90s are newly coming to market and embody the bold, gold look that contemporary buyers are seeking. Or so the estate jewelry dealers we spoke to told us.
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